Mary Katrantzou @LFW 2011

Mary Katrantzou parca stie cat de mult tanjim dupa un refresh, astfel ca propunerile ei pentru sezonul de toamna/iarna 2011/2012 raman fidele formelor si culorilor puternice cu care ne-a obisnuit retina. 

Rochiile designer-ului de origine greaca se contureaza precum niste portelanuri orientale. Flori mari albe si albastre, "fasii de viata", borduri aurii, copaci stilizati. 

Corsetele cu motive florale bogate sunt intrerupte de brauri decupate geometric. Una dintre fuste are talie dubla si detasata de corp pentru a crea o silueta sculpturala. De asemenea, mantourile desenate de Katrantzou au umerii rotunzi si insinueaza o silueta "clepsidra". 

Culorile pe care le-a ales Mary Katrantzou induc ideea de joc: negru cu oranj si auriu, bleu cu bej inchis. Voalul se impleteste cu satinul si catifeaua, fiind in acord cu motivele opulente ale imprimeurilor. Per ansamblu, o colectie studiata, dar la care as fi ales alti pantofi. 

Foto: style.com 

To print or not to print

Am observat mania printurilor digitale care s-a manifestat dupa lansarea colectiei primavara/vara 2010 Alexander McQueen. Si tinerii designeri romani au incercat formula - Alina Ene, Lana Dumitru. Eu le-as spune sa arunce un ochi in gradina designer-ului de origine greaca, Mary Katranzou, care creeaza cu ajutorul imprimeurilor siluete sculpturale, cu croiuri impecabile, si rochii-bijuterie.

Un interviu dat de ea, cu privire la aceasta amprenta personala:

Walk me through the process of print development.
The great thing with digital prints is that every designer can be quite individual; it’s a medium to do something entirely yours. Most of my collections are quite thematic—perfume bottles, blown glass, et cetera—so I do heavy research on that theme. I do a collage of my own elements. With the perfume bottles, there were great refractions of glass, and then I designed the print and engineered them on the body. For the blown glass, we took pictures of the glass and translated them into prints. For the latest collection, I used portraiture and paintings—Fragonard, Madame de Pompadour, a string of pearls from a painting—and it was really heavily researched. Most of my prints have been quite flattering, I think, the way they’re engineered around the body. I try to sculpt the body with the print.

You, Peter Pilotto, and Erdem have really put digital prints on the map in London. Why do you think customers have responded so well?
It allows you to have a very individual aesthetic. It’s not just about tailoring—you’re putting your own signature on the pieces, and it distinguishes one designer from the other.

Sursa: dailyfrontrow.com

Jewels jewels @Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou, fall/winter 2010 @ London fw

Charming collection! 

Foto: style.com