Paris Fashion Week 2011 s-a incheiat miercurea trecuta. Care ar fi punctul de diferenta dintre Paris si celelalte capitale ale modei, din punctul de vedere al colectiilor? Rosul, galbenul si verdele devin doar accente printre metri de stofa neagra. Astfel, Parisul este mai sumbru azi, poate si in urma evenimentelor din spatele caselor Dior si Balmain.
Femeia, in viziunea designer-ilor care au prezentat in aceasta ultima saptamana, este misterioasa, introvertita si parca imperturbabila. Isi ascunde silueta cu ajutorul unui palton gros ce ia forma unui cocon, priveste din umbra palariei cu boruri largi ori isi etaleaza lipsa de fragilitate purtand fie o salopeta masculina, fie o rochie din piele.
Hey boy!
Costumul din doua piese, cu sacou sau vesta supradimensionata, dau un ton auster tinutei. Tenul palid al manechinelor trimite la imaginea unei lumi rigide. It's a man's world.
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A.F. Vandevorst - Haider Ackermann
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Hakaan - Hussein Chalayan
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Limi Feu - Sonia Rykiel - Stella McCartney
Black&white
Look-urile all-black sunt depasite in rafinament de cele in care fusta sau gulerul alb contrasteaza cu negrul.
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Chanel - Hussein Chalayan - Miu Miu - Rick Owens
It's all in the details
Hamurile de piele si reverele de blana sunt elemente ce creeaza piese absolut unice.
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A.F. Vandevorst - Carven - Dries van Notten
Cocoon
Hainele iau forme stranii: maneci tubulare, fuste cu pliuri exagerate si trenciuri "egg shape".
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Elie Saab - Hussein Chalayan - Lanvin
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Limi Feu - Loewe - Stella McCartney - YSL
Furrr
Hainele din blana revin in fiecare sezon de toamna/iarna, insa pe podiumurile de la PFW cele cu umeri mari, rotunzi, si miţoase sunt the next hit.
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Alexander McQueen - Ann Demeulemeester - Isabel Marant
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Loewe - Sonia Rykiel - YSL
Golden touch
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Balmain - Dries van Noten - Jean-Paul Gaultier
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Stella McCartney - Vivienne Westwood
Leather
Acest material a acaparat din nou atentia designer-ilor. Loewe vine cu linii "curate", pe cand la Ann Demeulemeester si Haider Ackermann se observa o tendinta gotica, punk.
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Ann Demeulemeester - Haider Ackermann - Haider Ackermann
Loewe
Loose fit
Pantalonii lejeri, eventual cu un croi clasic, sunt cu siguranta una din tendintele principale pentru toamna/iarna 2011/2012.
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Chloe - Dries van Noten - Jean-Paul Gaultier
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Roland Mouret - Rue du Mail
Do the mini
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Anne Valerie Hash - Balmain - Chanel
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Hakaan - Isabel Marant
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Lanvin - Miu Miu - Roland Mouret
The vest
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Ann Demeulemeester - Balmain - Dries van Noten
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Giambattista Valli - Haider Ackermann
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Isabel Marant - Limi Feu
Foto: style.com